How COVID-19 fed the dream of growing food at home

This story is a component of Home Certain, a collection that examines People’ fraught relationship to their houses—and the once-in-a-lifetime alternative to hit the reset button. Learn extra right here.

When COVID-19 struck the United States, individuals rushed to grocery shops to refill on food, solely to search out that many shelf-stable objects like beans, rice, and flour have been offered out. It was the first time many of us have been pressured to contemplate the place our food comes from—and the way weak the international food system actually is.

These food shortages spurred many People to contemplate growing their very own food for the first time. Some planted greens of their backyards and windowsills, whereas others went for high-tech hydroponic gardens.

In the years earlier than the pandemic, startups developed these compact self-watering, self-fertilizing, gardening machines that have been aesthetically pleasing, in addition. Throughout the lockdowns, gross sales of these merchandise—which begin round $800—spiked, prompting enterprise capitalists to pour hundreds of thousands into the business.


However as the COVID period involves an finish, it stays to be seen whether or not these high-tech gardens have endurance or whether or not they have been only a short-lived novelty. And extra broadly, it’s value asking whether or not these units generally is a instrument for making agriculture extra sustainable and equitable, or whether or not they’re simply one other toy for the Entire Meals class.

[Photo: courtesy of Freight Farms]

The hydroponics revolution

Hydroponics, which merely means growing vegetation in an answer of water and vitamins as an alternative of soil, have been round since at least 600 BCE. However in the late Twenties, William Gericke of the College of California modernized these methods, creating farms that require much less area and as much as 95% much less water than soil-based farms, however yield a lot larger harvests by optimizing gentle, water, and vitamins. Throughout World Struggle II, the U.S. navy constructed hydroponic gardens to develop greens for troops in areas that weren’t suited to conventional agriculture, corresponding to Ascension Island, a refueling station in the Atlantic Ocean, the place troopers grew thousands of pounds of cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, and radishes every month, staving off malnutrition.

COVID-19 prompted some international locations to make use of hydroponics to cope with disruptions in the international provide chain. The Netherlands and Singapore, which have restricted agricultural land and rely largely on imports, invested billions throughout the pandemic to construct industrial hydroponics farms on rooftops and parking heaps. In the United States, hydroponics are nonetheless a small enterprise, with about 3,000 companies producing round $800 million in income, a small sliver of the $451 billion from conventional farming. However analysts are banking that the business is poised to develop.

Over the final 5 years, a bevy of startups—together with Rise Gardens, Gardyn, Lettuce Develop, Aerogarden, and Click on-and-Develop—have launched to create hydroponic techniques that may match inside a home. That’s a departure from the focus over the previous century on large-scale hydroponics farms.

The units are costly, and earlier than the pandemic, it was a tricky promote convincing shoppers to spend practically $1,000 on a machine which may take years to repay. However COVID-19 modified the recreation, as individuals round the world nervous about food shortages. “The pandemic made individuals take note of the place their food comes from and accelerated their curiosity in producing their very own food,” says Nina Ichikawa, government director of the Berkeley Food Institute, which promotes food fairness. “This new consciousness is an effective factor.”

Many of these startups doubled or tripled their gross sales over the previous yr, and a few traders are capitalizing on this curiosity. True Ventures, which funds Peloton and Blue Bottle, invested $2.6 million in Rise Gardens; Gardyn raised $10 million from JAB Holding Firm, the largest shareholder in Keurig. And proper earlier than the pandemic, Estonia-based Click on & Develop acquired $11 million in funding from Y Combinator and Ingka Group, which operates 367 Ikea shops in Europe.


[Photo: courtesy of Lettuce Grow]

A private hydroponic backyard

Regardless of my lifelong black thumb, I made a decision to check Lettuce Develop, a six-foot tall hydroponic backyard that appears like a white sculpture with vegetation artfully growing on it. I’m shocked by how a lot food I’ve grown: My household of three now eats freshly plucked lettuces with every meal and but our harvest is so plentiful, we’ve needed to share our veggies with neighbors.

The wonder of hydroponic techniques is that they’re designed to run on their very own, with minimal intervention from the proprietor. My machine mechanically waters and fertilizes the vegetation by pumping a nutrient-rich resolution via the system for quarter-hour each hour. The high-efficiency LED gentle rings management how a lot gentle the vegetation obtain, including only some {dollars} to our month-to-month electrical energy invoice. All I’ve to do is prime up the water in the base and add a number of spoonfuls of plant food each week.

In relation to seeds, all of these hydroponic startups are additionally, successfully, subscription applications. It’s essential purchase seeds or seedlings from the firm for about $2 apiece to switch the vegetation you’ve absolutely harvested. This takes wherever from three weeks to a number of months relying on their development cycle. “You get to take pleasure in the magnificence of watching residing issues develop, while not having any experience in farming,” says Jacob Pechenik, who co-founded Lettuce Develop in 2019 with the actress Zooey Deschanel.

And these startups aren’t simply targeted on making the machines smaller, they’ve additionally made them stunning. Lettuce Develop, as an example, labored with the designer Pip Tomkins—who beforehand designed the Nokia M Sequence—to create a stand with greens and herbs cascading from the sides, very similar to you’d see on a plant wall. Rise Gardens partnered with TBD Innovations, a agency made up of former IDEO designers, to create a system that appears like a white cupboard with rows of vegetation above it. “We knew that our backyard wanted to look enticing for individuals to contemplate bringing them into their houses,” says Hank Adams, founder and CEO of Rise Gardens. “We wished it to be stunning and minimalist, so that you’d be blissful to have it whether or not you reside in your studio condominium or massive home.”

Rise Gardens, Gardyn, and Lettuce Develop all created modular techniques, so prospects can begin with only a few ranges of vegetation and develop over time. Pechenik says his aim was for Lettuce Develop to switch as much as a fifth of a family’s produce. (I can attest that our 24-plant unit simply achieves this for a household of three.) For individuals who can afford it, these machines generate fruit and veggies which can be far tastier and extra nutritious than what you’d usually purchase at a retailer. Research present that most produce loses 30% of its vitamins three days after harvest, and far of what we discover in the grocery is far older than that.

Hydroponics supplies a substitute for industrial agriculture, which has dominated our food system since the Sixties. Manufacturing unit-like farms are unhealthy for the planet as a result of they deplete the soil, devour so much of water, spew poisonous pesticides into the atmosphere, and contribute to deforestation. Transporting food round the nation additionally generates carbon emissions and creates so much of waste, since produce goes unhealthy alongside the manner. Half of all U.S. produce is thrown out. For me, one of the finest elements about having a hydroponic backyard at home is that we’ve just about eradicated waste and need to make fewer journeys to the grocery retailer.

Food inequity

For now, most of these units have gone to individuals interested by small-scale gardening. However the founders consider their merchandise have the skill to disrupt our damaged food system, in the event that they’re in a position to scale. “We aren’t in the gardening enterprise,” says FX Rouxel, Gardyn’s founder and CEO. “We’re attempting to reinvent how individuals can develop their very own food at scale. If we’ve options which can be compelling sufficient, we consider we are able to change individuals’s food habits and cut back their dependence on the grocery retailer.” Gardyn launched in early 2020, and in its first yr, Rouxel says its a whole bunch of prospects grew 70,000 kilos of produce.

However Berkeley Food Institute’s Ichikawa argues that we must be skeptical about whether or not these high-end hydroponic techniques can really change the food system. Most individuals don’t have the cash to take a position a whole bunch of {dollars} on this {hardware}, and people are precisely the individuals who may most profit. A tenth of households expertise food insecurity and greater than 23.5 million People stay in neighborhoods without easy access to a supermarket. “Wealthy individuals are prepared to spend their cash on many new-fangled applied sciences that don’t essentially influence the relaxation of the business for higher or for worse,” she says. “It’s only a new enterprise alternative for these startups.”

She factors out that hydroponics don’t need to be so costly or difficult. In actual fact, so much of innovation round cost-effective small-scale hydroponics got here from cannabis growers, many of whom have been individuals of colour working underground. Entrepreneurs and scientists have been growing reasonably priced DIY hydroponics in Africa, significantly Kenya. Startups like Hydroponics Africa have constructed techniques that don’t require electrical energy and use cheap, domestically accessible supplies, together with fungi-resistant aluminum trays. “These [U.S.] startups are making a flashier, fancier model of techniques which have really been round for a very long time,” Ichikawa says. “There are so much of low-cost options which have emerged from the floor up, from the communities that depend upon these applied sciences to outlive.”

For now, Pechenik tries to make his expertise accessible to extra individuals by donating one Lettuce Develop machine for each 10 offered to varsities, nonprofits, and neighborhood organizations. He says they’ve distributed a number of hundred already, together with $1 million in donations. Rise Backyard, in the meantime, has launched a smaller machine that begins at $279. “I evaluate this to the early days of private computing, when a laptop computer was very costly, and but now, laptops are extensively accessible” Adams says. “As hydroponic gardens scale, the value of manufacturing will go down.”

One reply would possibly come from techniques which can be massive sufficient to feed a neighborhood, reasonably than a single household, and thus are more cost effective. Take, as an example, Freight Farms, which debuted the first hydroponic farm inside a delivery container in 2012. The corporate sells $130,000 containers that may generate the similar quantity of food as three and a half acres of farmland, sufficient to feed a whole bunch of individuals. Lengthy-term, these techniques are extra economical given their scale and will assist resolve food insecurity issues. Town of Boston, as an example, purchased 5 Freight Farm techniques in Mattapan, the place 20% of the inhabitants lives beneath the poverty line, to create a excessive tech farming co-op. “Our farms are getting used as half of neighborhood redevelopment,” says Rick Vanzura, Freight Farms’ CEO.


Throughout the pandemic, Freight Farms’ gross sales tripled, and the firm expects enterprise to triple once more in 2021. Final yr, it landed $15 million in Sequence B funding, bringing its whole to $28 million. Vanzura believes that for hydroponics to have an effect on agriculture, there’ll have to be farms of completely different sizes, starting from particular person gardens to industrial farms. In actual fact, Freight Farms suggested Lettuce Develop about growing methods, drawing from its decade-worth of knowledge. “We have to cooperate as an business to take the finest of what we every do and assist one another get higher,” he says.

As hydroponics develop in recognition, Ichikawa says that it’s essential to keep in mind that it’s not the solely, or finest, resolution to cultivating food for a neighborhood. The poor are typically most impacted by issues in the food system and undergo from well being points resulting from lack of entry to nutritious food. That is why organizations like hers advocate for food sovereignty, which implies empowering communities to take cost of their very own food provide via issues like native possession of grocery shops and yard or neighborhood gardening.

Whereas midsize hydroponic techniques could possibly be a instrument for tackling food insecurity, she worries that it may create a brand new barrier to entry, making entry to recent food appear much more out of attain. “Food sovereignty can completely shield us from the instabilities from pandemics or local weather change, so any manner that people can really feel autonomy over their food provide is an effective factor,” Ichikawa says. “However you don’t want a flowery hydroponic system to do that. You may do it simply as simply with a bucket of soil by a window.”